Month: November 2022

A storm showed up on our doorstep moments before our beginner group’s morning session, which forced our camp to redirect to Blackstone in Nusa Dua. Our intermediate surfers, who paddled out to Secrets for the morning low tide, managed to get most of their early session in before the storm arrived. Our beginner group still found fun waves, despite the slight onshore conditions. The smaller, protected wave at Blackstone offered up fun, shoulder-high left and right-breaking waves, good enough to put smiles on our surfers’ faces.

This part of the year is marked by weather that changes by the minute. The key to finding good waves in variable conditions is having the ability to think on your feet, and understanding the area you are surfing in. It is important to know how other areas of the Bukit might also be affected by the same off-forcast weather systems.

The swell picked up just enough overnight to serve up shoulder high sets amongst windless, glassy conditions. Our surfers found left-breaking waves peeling down the reef with smooth faces. The waves offered plenty of opportunities to turn your board up towards the lip of the wave, and put all of your strength and skill into a top turn.

Today, the swell increased in size and period to 3 ft. at 13 seconds, which is just enough swell for many breaks all around Bali to begin working. Uluwatu is one of the most consistent waves in the world. The peaks at Uluwatu always pick up and amplify the swell on the small days like today. All that is needed is a little west in the swell direction, and you will have fun, rip-able waves. Additionally, the small days are often accompanied by sunshine, which always improves the surfing experience.

The swell dropped off in size overnight leaving only the most exposed breaks with surfable waves. Our intermediate crew headed over to Pandawa where they found shoulder high sets, clean conditions, and a light crowd amongst the Sunday-morning beachgoers. Pandawa still managed to produce clean, left-breaking waves which allowed our surfers to practice generating speed while travelling down the line. This morning’s smooth walls presented our surfers with opportunities to feel and correct weight distribution imbalances that cause the surfboard to travel inefficiently throught the water.

It is uncommon for the swell reading to drop to 3.5 ft. at 9 seconds. The most exposed breaks on the island, such as Green Bowl and Pandawa, are only a short drive from our camp, which affords us the best opportunity to surf on a day like today, when most breaks on the island were flat.

It was a beautiful morning down at Pandawa as the clouds faded away and the sun made its glorious return! The southern tip of the Bukit was our preferred choice today for our intermediate surfers given the lighter wind and the southerly direction of the swell. Our surfers found fun, smooth, overhead lefts with a few larger sets coming in. The faces of the waves remained clean, which allowed the surfers to race down the line and work on the fundamental skill of developing drive from their bottom turns.

Tomorrow, the swell is forecast to continue to fade in size. The wind is expected to ease from a persistent westerly direction to becoming light and variable from the north. The bottom of the low tide is creeping progessivley later into each morning over the next several days, which means our sessions will have to wait untill enough water covers the reef.

Our intermediate group headed off to Geger Left again this morning as the onshore wind has decided to stick around the Uluwatu area for another day, as predicted in the forecast. At Geger, the wind was blowing offshore, and the swell was showing its full size with overhead waves on the sets. Our surfers managed to race down the line for some fast and challenging rides.

In most places around the world, an onshore day like today would mean no surfing. In Bali, we are blessed with exposed reefs and coastlines facing several different directions. This means that it is almost always offshore somewhere on the island, and the more exposed breaks will usually pick up a surfable wave. Separately, today is Melasti in Bali, which is an important day for the Balinese Hindus. Today’s ceremony will also be the first traditionally held ceremony since the pandemic began.

A tropical squall beat us to the lineup this morning which brought onshore wind and cloudy skies. Our beginner surfers still managed to catch fun rides sliding down the face of the left and right-breaking waves. A beginner can still develop their skills in onshore conditions as they are mostly still developing the ability to ride left and right. Additionally, there is often less people in the lineup, which means more waves for everyone!

This time of the year is marked by unpredictable weather. Offshore squalls can blow in quickly, bringing wind and rain with them, and often blowing out the surfing conditions. Tomorrow, the wind is forecast to remain onshore after peaking in strength this afternoon. We will most likely head to Nusa Dua or the East Coast, depending on how the conditions develop this afternoon and overnight.

Our beginner surfers were back out at Baby Padang this morning! The new swell had not yet arrived however the sun was out and the waves were fun! The ocean served up slow-moving lines, which our beginner group used to develop their fundamental understanding of the art of surfing. The slow pace of the waves at Padang Padang are optimal for a beginner surfer to progress from being pushed into waves by our team, to having the ability to catch a wave using their own positioning knowledge, paddle strength, and control of their surfboard.

A new, larger swell is scheduled to arrive later this afternoon, and just in time for the annual Uluwatu Boardriders Challenge 2022 surfing competition, held at Uluwatu. Both Scotty, an instructor and Uluwatu local ripper, and Andrew, the founder of the camp, will compete against some of Bali’s best surfers.

Our surfers were off to Pandawa this morning where they found fun, shoulder-high waves with an offshore wind. Despite the less than ideal conditions, the session exceeded everyone’s expectations as our surfers nearly had the place to themselves. Pandawa served up fun left and right-breaking peaks, which provided our surfers with plenty of opportunities to gain speed and focus on improving their turns.

When the conditions are less than ideal, local knowledge is key. Our surf guides were on top of things this morning as we found clean, empty, offshore peaks while most people were still sleeping. This less-often surfed break is near the southernmost point of the island of Bali, which means the reef picks up whatever swell is hitting Bali. Because of the exposed nature of the break, Pandawa is often too large and the currrents are too strong.