The onshore-west wind picked up quickly this morning despite the clean conditions at first light, and the forecast predicting that the wind would remain offshore through the early morning session. Our beginners were still out there bright and early to test their skills in the challenging conditions. The larger swell, coming in at 5ft. at 14 seconds, produced head-high set waves with workable wave faces despite the unfavorable wind.

As a developing surfer, it is beneficial to surf in all conditions. The choppier sea state often means you must pop up quickly to avoid nose-diving. Once this is learned, you can apply the new skillset to days with clean conditions. When you are able to get to your feet at the top of the wave, you can benefit from the control gained from being in the functional stance while sliding down the wave face.